![]() ![]() Small amounts of glue might squeeze out the sides. Place the tip carefully and of course, as centered as possible to create a flush surface, so the glue drops come together (use only a little glue, so excess doesn't spill over the sides).Smooth the glue along the surface a bit with a toothpick's edge. Add a very small drop of glue onto the tip, too, at its bottom. When you are satisfied that you have one continuous surface between tip and stick, place a small drop of glue on the surface of the ferrule you've have just sanded.If you find any gaps at all, re-sand both components as in #'s 3 and 4. Turn the cue and tip around its whole circumference in front of a strong light source to check for gaps between the two. Hold your new, sanded tip and press it against the ferrule. Check for a future flush connection between tip and cue stick next.Take a piece of 400 grit sandpaper, lie it flat on a smooth, flat surface facing upward to sand the bottom of the new tip, again with a circular motion and again until this surface is likewise utterly flush and smooth.Hold the sandpaper firmly against the top of the ferrule there while spinning the cue around to sand the surface until you're sure it is completely level, flush and smooth. Take a little piece of 150 or 180 grit sandpaper (very fine/very small grit size) and press it tightly against the surface where the tip was just removed.Next, scrape the surface clean where the old tip was glued by using the edge of your knife.Do not under any circumstances slice into the ferrule or wood of your cue' shaft. ![]() Remove the old tip by cutting it off with a Stanley knife or utility knife and as close to the ferrule as possible. ![]()
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